Two Trails
Appalachian Trail & Millennium TrailMarch 23, 2011 9:00 pm
I thought I would use this blog and write about both trails since I hiked a very small portion of the first one and yesterday I finished the second one. From the very first time I ever heard of the Appalachian trail, I was a young man at the time, it always held some allure for me. However, because I was married so young and children soon followed: the idea of actually being able to hike the complete trail was only a dream.
This past weekend Virgil and I were able to hike a small portion of the AT through parts of North Carolina and Tennessee. The spot where we picked the trail up started in Tennessee and at different points on the trail it would cross over into North Carolina and then back into Tennessee.
Virgil got to see his first Alpaca and experience his first encounter with a rooster while we were there. Both of these events happened in Mt. Sterling NC. He woofed at the alpacas and with the roosters as they were strutting across the road in front of us and crying cock-a-doodle-doo... over and over, he just looked stunned and he never even barked at them. His head would jerk around to look at them... and then back to search my face, then quickly back to them! For all the world it appeared to me like he couldn't believe these strange little guys and their funny voices: and with no apparent fear of Virgil or myself... were they even real? (Thinking of his expression had me laughing for the next hour as we hiked the trail.)
Of course, this past weekend while we were there and walking it was just a very small taste of the whole trail... but it did whet my appetite for more. When I was a young man if I saw a pretty girl across the room I would try to catch her eye. And if she looked at me I would smile and wink at her. I was just wanting to let her know that I thought she was cute and I might be interested in more? Well, that's how it was for me on the trail this past weekend... it was just an innocent wink and a smile at the AT... and the knowledge that I might very well be interested in more?
This first picture was at the NC state line sign just over the Tennessee sign. Each time I took a picture I had to leash Virgil to something so he wouldn't get spooked and get himself hurt.
This picture is very near the road sign for the NC/TN border. It was much prettier being there than what any picture could capture. The morning started out rainy and cool and a white mist hung over all of the tall hills and mountain areas. It was very beautiful and I wished that I had someone else to share it with me, besides my little man Virgil. (Although he has always been great company to me every where I go and a true friend.)
We were trying to find a spot where I could begin my hike because several spots in that area prohibited dogs on the trail as parts of the AT are in the national park in Tennessee. So, I stopped at the ranger's station in Bear Creek Campground to see where I could start? No one was there, so I looked at the map which was posted and tried my best to start in an area that looked like it was out of the designated area for the park? Anyway... if we hiked at any point in an otherwise restricted area for dogs, no one ever said anything. As an aside, also posted on the signboard at the Bear Creek Campground was a poster that forbade any overnight campers until further notice because there had been too many bear sightings recently, and they didn't want any unnecessary encounters.
Here is the spot we first looked at to start hiking from. It's impossible to tell this from the picture, but it is STRAIGHT UP... and for quite awhile. One of the guys who I had asked along the roadway for a good starting point... he had been on a raft on the river... said that part of the trail was arduous. Now, I knew for a fact that was a good point to begin because it would give me a chance to test both myself and Virgil... also, he had correctly used the word “arduous” in a sentence, so I was a little impressed. I also figured he probably wasn't from Tennessee. (lol) Now, I hope I don't have any friends from that particular state who might be reading this blog?
The trail lets out at different spots all along the roadway. Here is another spot where we picked it up... and again, it was nearly straight up for awhile. At the first break from climbing in a nearly vertical way, the trail switched to the right and leveled out. First though, you had to cross in front of a small waterfall and over wet rocks. My little man charged ahead and as soon as his feet touched the slippery rocks, he went down. Not hard but on his side. He was now wet and confused. He got up, looked at me... and started back the way we came. He had seen it, done it, and had fallen... I think he thought he was done with this fun (?) experience, and it was now over. I started laughing and hugged him to me and coaxed him on ahead. Reluctantly, but always obediently... he dutifully marched ahead! The last picture in this group of three just talks about the Appalachian Trail.
This next picture is the first people we came across on the trail. Virgil and I were now descending a trail and off to our left I could hear someone talking but I couldn't yet see anyone. Then, I heard a woman's voice say, “It's a bear.” Now, Virgil is on a six-foot lead in front of me and he had broken through a part where he could be seen... but only through the brush and I couldn't be seen at all. Just in case though whoever it was had been “loaded for bear?” I called out, “No, it's just my dog.” I mean, if they had shot him or something like that... I would have been throwing someone kicking and screaming off the mountain. (I started to write lol after that, except... I'm afraid I would have been serious about that part.)
The couple's names are Tom and Jackie, and they have a great story! I think it must have been a second marriage for them... though I don't know this for sure, but from the way she talked I don't think they have been married to each other for very long. They met on the Appalachian Trail while hiking. Soon after they realized they were in love and they got married on the AT at a spot in New York that overlooks the Hudson Bay. I told them I thought they had a great story and did they have a blog or anything where they could write about what they were doing?
She said that those things were just too confusing for them and she, “... doesn't trust Facebook and things like that.” (I thought that was a cute statement.) They are 64 and 65 (respectively) and they are afraid because of their age that they cannot hike the trail to its end on a through hike. So, they are taking it in stages with a few days on and then a short rest back home before continuing. Anyway, I thought their story was remarkable. To be with the one you love while doing the very thing both of you love... well, how could life be any better than that? So, to Tom and Jackie I wish you the very best and I honestly pray that both of you will reach your goals together.
The next picture is at the very bottom of our first climb where we ascended and then had made our first complete descent.
This last picture was taken when we were on the very top of some mountain. The picture does no justice to the natural beauty that was everywhere around us. Standing there I was again reminded why they are called the Blue Ridge Mountains. There was a distinct blue colored hue to the mountains that were farthest away. The scene really was spectacular... and the hike to the top... tiring, but exhilarating also.
I will now write about my other experience yesterday on the Millennium Trail in Burnheim Forest. Bob, one of my three sons-in-law had recently run this trail and he did it in a wonderful time of three hours and fifty one minutes! He is younger and in better shape physically. Because that is true I knew there would be no chance of me being able to do it close to his time. Nevertheless I certainly figured I could get to within two hours of that time. So, before going I told him I would do it in five hours and fifty one minutes or less! That was just one more stupid statement I could add to a growing list of stupid statements I have made in my lifetime.
Now, before I tell you how long it took me to complete the course in comparison to Bob's exquisite time... I first want to give all of you readers my long list of excuses up front.
First, I am 55. Also I have been working hard on trying to reach some personal goals I have set and I am trying to do this within a specified time... so far I think I am doing okay with that part... although I still have much more work to do with that. So, that only means that I have been spending a lot of time at the Y and working toward my goals.
As you already read above, Virgil and I had this past weekend hiked a small part of the AT in two states. The trail we were on kept going back-and-forth over the lines separating NC from TN. Before leaving for Tennessee I had little sleep that night and was up just after 3:00 am and getting things ready for the road. Within just a few hours time we were taking our first tentative steps on the AT itself. We had a great, but tiring time there before returning home.
The very next day I was at the Y early and I did a few miles on the treadmill and I did 7,000 steps on a stair-stepper, followed by seven miles on a recumbent bike, (average speed 18mph) and 32 laps total in the pool. Twice I also did a full-circuit with my free weights.
The next morning I was up at 5:00 am and preparing to go and “conquer” the Millennium Trail. In fact, after I was back home my daughter Tammy sent me a very nice email congratulating me on doing just that... conquering the trail. I was quick to send back an email thanking her for the nice words... but admitting that I conquered nothing: it was more like I survived it, and that just barely.
Now with all of the cumulative effect the previous few days had on me... let me add one more qualifier. (Here is something you... the reader... might want to try at home.) I weighed my backpack with water, then I weighed my staff (walking stick I was carrying) and the extra pounds I am still wanting to lose and I realized that it would be the same for a normal person to strap a 55 pound midget to your back and still do what I did?
Here is what you might try. Go find a 55 pound midget and tie him onto your back. However, before doing that be sure you get his consent. Because if you only tie him to your back and he is not amenable to the idea, then, as he is struggling to get loose as you are hiking it will make your trip much harder. One more thing, if you find this guy and he agrees to do this: he won't be allowed to talk to you or to entertain you in any way. I also forgot to take along the Apple iPod so if I could have no company... neither can you. Remember, what you are carrying must be dead-weight with no benefit whatsoever.
I got to the park two hours before the visitor center opened. Evidently they want you to register at the guest center before hiking that trail in case you get lost? I knocked on the locked door and a cleaning lady came out and when I explained what I was doing and that I certainly could not wait nearly two hours for them to open... she brought the guest-book to me and I signed in. Now, I was ready to go.
The big posted sign suggests that “experienced hikers” should be able to complete “Burnheim's longest trail – The Millennium Trail” in under seven hours. Well, that was definitely not going to be a problem for me. Seven hours from that time I just knew that I would be half way home on my one hour long drive.
Bob had told me to take plenty of water, and I thought I had. I even placed two extra bottles on the front seat of my car so I would have them ready when I finished the trail. He also told me how remarkably long and steep some of the climbs were... please... I just got back from Tennessee, these were going to be only tall hills compared to the mountains of Tennessee. At least that was my thinking. Within the first quarter mile was the first ascent... a little steep, but if that's all they've got: bring it on!
At the two mile marker I was averaging 24 minutes and 30 seconds per mile. That was a little faster than what I wanted and I knew I needed to pace myself better. I slowed down a little and at the four mile marker I was averaging 27 minutes and 30 seconds a mile... and that was perfect. This was the pace I needed to keep. However, between the six and the eight mile marker were some climbs that would rival anything I walked in Tennessee. I was on a very steep slope and I stopped to catch my breath and I leaned my chin on my walking stick and I looked around to see what I could see from that vantage-point. I could hear several wonderful noises, most notably the steady rat-a-tat-tat of woodpeckers busy at work. (This is always and forevermore one of my favorite sounds in all of nature!) Anyway, I glanced up and high above me there were four large birds circling. With me leaning on my stick... they probably felt like dinner couldn't be far off? I looked at them flying high above and boldly shouted, “Not today!” Then I started walking again. The next time I looked they were nowhere in sight... they must have believed me?
At the eight mile marker I stopped to eat a Kashi bar and a handful of cheese crackers and to drink the last of my water. Wait... the last of my water, how could that be? I guess the hills that Bob told me about and the ones I didn't believe could actually be that bad had caused me to drink more than I intended. Besides, I had this nifty little tube hanging right by my mouth and I could suck up some water anytime I wanted... at least until now.
By the time I reached the ten mile marker and the heat was now above 80 degrees... I was really starting to drag. Then for me the unthinkable happened. My blood glucose levels had been steadily dropping as I had been exerting myself... and I needed to eat a Kashi bar, cheese stick... something to get those levels up: but, my mouth was so dry I knew I couldn't swallow. For nearly the last four miles I would walk a couple of hundred feet before I was so dizzy I could barely stand, then I would sit on a rock or fallen tree and put my head lower than my upper body until I could get enough blood up there so I could walk again. I did this several dozen times until the end of the trail.
A dear friend of mine had emailed me a story about Bear Grylls and what he said can be done to hydrate if you find yourself in the woods with no potable water. He said you can give yourself an enema with water that would normally not be fit to drink... and this would hydrate your body. At about the 11 mile marker I crossed a stream and I thought of that story. Two problems with that though. One, I had no such supplies with me to do something like that... and two, given that as my only alternative, I'm pretty sure I would have chosen just to lay down and die before doing that anyway!
About the 12 mile marker I started to feel sorry for the four birds as I was fairly certain I had sent them away too soon. I mean... if they had waited for just a little while longer, there might be a meal for them after all?
Well, the fact that I am typing this means that I did finish the trail. Ready for the results? Remember though, if you find yourself falling out of your chair laughing after reading my time... don't forget the midget story? The Indians used to say that before another man could be judged for his deeds that you first, “Had to walk a mile in his moccasins.” Well, I'm not an Indian and I own no moccasins, but before you mock and judge me... I say, “Find that 55 pound midget... tie him to your back: then walk the 14 mile Millennium Trail and see what your time is?” And you can quote me. (lol)
NINE HOURS AND FIFTEEN MINUTES!!! Wow, that was hard to write.
You can always email me at clarkmatthews1@aol.com
posted by Robin Johnson @ 8:52 PM
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